Getting to Know Ardahan
Ardahan is a highland province in the north-eastern corner of Türkiye, on the Georgian border, with an average altitude of over 1,800 metres. The Kura River crosses the lava plateau at the heart of the province from end to end; it is ringed by the Yalnızçam Mountains, which exceed 3,000 metres, Mount Kısır (3,197 m, the highest point in the province) and Mount Akbaba.
In the Middle Ages the region belonged to the Georgian kingdoms and then to the Samtskhe-Saatabago atabegate, which is why the province is full of the remains of Georgian castles and churches. The Ottomans took the region in the mid-16th century; in the survey register of 1595 the city appears as “Rabat-ı Kala-i Parakan”. Ardahan passed to Russia in the Russo-Turkish War of 1877–78 and rejoined Türkiye under the Treaty of Moscow in 1921. For a long time a district of Kars, Ardahan became a province in 1992.
Today Ardahan is known for its harsh winters and cool summers: in winter Çıldır Lake freezes from end to end and horse-drawn sleighs travel across it; in summer the highlands come into flower, and the apple orchards and Caucasian bee hives of Posof come to life.
When to Go
Winters in Ardahan are long and very cold, and summers are warm and rainy. Averages for 1958–2025 from the Turkish State Meteorological Service:
| Month |
Avg. high |
Avg. low |
Rainfall |
Rainy days |
| January |
−4.8 °C |
−16.5 °C |
20 mm |
9 |
| February |
−3.1 °C |
−15.6 °C |
21 mm |
10 |
| March |
2.9 °C |
−8.6 °C |
32 mm |
12 |
| April |
11.1 °C |
−1.0 °C |
51 mm |
14 |
| May |
16.3 °C |
3.3 °C |
84 mm |
17 |
| June |
20.4 °C |
6.0 °C |
92 mm |
15 |
| July |
24.0 °C |
8.9 °C |
71 mm |
12 |
| August |
24.8 °C |
8.7 °C |
62 mm |
11 |
| September |
20.8 °C |
4.5 °C |
37 mm |
8 |
| October |
14.4 °C |
0.0 °C |
38 mm |
10 |
| November |
6.6 °C |
−5.4 °C |
28 mm |
9 |
| December |
−1.8 °C |
−12.3 °C |
22 mm |
10 |
The lowest temperature ever recorded is −39.8 °C. There are two quite different Ardahans:
- Winter (January–February): Çıldır Lake freezes; this is the best time for horse-drawn sleigh tours and the winter festival held in February. Temperatures at night fall below −20 °C, so dress in layers.
- Summer (June–September): The highlands are green, daytime temperatures are 20–25 °C and nights are cool. The Atatürk silhouette at Damal can be seen only between 15 June and 15 July. June is the rainiest month of the year, so bring a raincoat.
How to Get to Ardahan
By air: There is no airport in Ardahan. The nearest is Kars Harakani Airport, about 90–95 km by road from the city centre; depending on flight times, a shuttle runs from the airport to Ardahan (about 1–1.5 hours).
By road: Ardahan is linked to Kars in the east and, in the west, over the Yalnızçam Pass to the Şavşat district of Artvin. The Türkgözü Border Gate at Posof opens onto Georgia’s Samtskhe-Javakheti region. In winter the Kars–Ardahan and Yalnızçam roads may occasionally close because of blizzards; check road conditions before setting out.
Ardahan Area by Area
- Merkez: Ardahan Castle, the Congress Building just below the castle, the bank of the Kura River; Yalnızçam Ski Centre, 22 km away.
- Çıldır: Çıldır Lake and the horse-drawn sleighs, Şeytan Castle, the village of Akçakale and the medieval remains on the island in the lake.
- Posof: Green valleys on the Georgian border, Posof Castle, the Caucasian bee and the red-fleshed Badele apple.
- Damal: The Atatürk silhouette that falls on Karadağ on June–July evenings, and the Damal doll.
- Göle and Hanak: ‘Green Göle’, which holds most of the province’s forests, and its kaşar dairies; in Hanak, the Kura valley and the remains of old Georgian churches.
Suggested Itineraries
Winter itinerary (2 days): Fly to Kars; on the first day go on to Çıldır Lake, join a horse-drawn sleigh tour, watch the ice fishing through holes cut in the ice, and head to Ardahan in the evening. On the second day see Ardahan Castle and the Congress Building, then ski at the Yalnızçam Ski Centre.
Summer itinerary (3 days): Day one, Ardahan Castle and the Kura riverbank; day two, Çıldır Lake and Şeytan Castle; day three, a journey via Hanak to Posof through the green valleys and, if you are there between June and July, the Atatürk silhouette at Damal in the early evening.
Ardahan Cuisine
Ardahan cuisine has been shaped by livestock farming and the harsh winter. The symbol of the province is Ardahan goose meat (kaz eti), slaughtered in autumn and dried for winter and granted a geographical indication in 2022; the goose usually comes to the table with homemade noodles or bulgur pilaf. Other registered products include Ardahan flower honey (çiçek balı), made from highland flowers, the red-fleshed Posof Badele apple (registered in 2019) and Ardahan kavılca wheat (kavılca buğdayı), an ancient wheat variety specific to the region. The kaşar cheese made in the dairies of Göle is celebrated at the Kaşar Festival, held in the district since 1995.
Practical Tips
- In winter the roads ice over and blizzards are common; chains and winter tyres are essential, and you should not travel at night.
- Local sleigh operators know the ice thickness on Çıldır Lake; do not go out on the ice alone or without a guide.
- Even in summer the evenings are cool; keep a coat and a raincoat with you.
- Şeytan Castle is reached by car as far as the viewing hill and then by footpath; take care at the castle, which has cliffs on three sides.
- If you intend to cross into Georgia via Türkgözü, take your passport or new-type ID card with you.