Getting to Know Aksaray
Aksaray is a province in the heart of Central Anatolia, stretching between Mount Hasan (3,268 m) and Lake Tuz. The volcanic landscape of western Cappadocia begins here: the lavas and tuffs thrown out by Mount Hasan have been eroded by streams, revealing canyons such as Ihlara and the rock-cut structures of Selime.
Human traces in the province go back to Aşıklı Höyük, one of the oldest settled villages in the world: the mound near the village of Kızılkaya saw continuous settlement between 8200 and 7500 BC, and the transition from hunting and gathering to settled life can be followed here. Acemhöyük, 18 km north-west of the city, was an important trading centre in the Assyrian Trade Colonies Period (1950–1750 BC).
In the Byzantine period the area around the Ihlara Valley and Güzelyurt became an important religious centre, with churches and monasteries carved into the rock; the name of Gregory of Nazianzus, one of the Cappadocian Fathers, is associated with Güzelyurt (Gelveri). In the Seljuk period Aksaray, which lay on the caravan road between Konya and Kayseri, was endowed with some of the most magnificent caravanserais in Anatolia, such as Sultan Han and Ağzıkara Han. The Grand Mosque from the Karamanid period and the city’s symbol, the Eğri Minare, are the traces of this layered past within the city.
Somuncu Baba, one of the Sufis of the Ottoman founding period, trained Hacı Bayram-ı Veli in Aksaray and was buried here in 1412.
When to Go
Aksaray has a continental climate: summers are hot and dry, and winters are cold. Averages for 1929–2025 from the Turkish State Meteorological Service:
| Month |
Avg. high |
Avg. low |
Rainfall |
Rainy days |
| January |
5.6 °C |
−3.4 °C |
40 mm |
10 |
| February |
7.5 °C |
−2.2 °C |
34 mm |
10 |
| March |
12.6 °C |
1.4 °C |
41 mm |
10 |
| April |
18.1 °C |
5.7 °C |
45 mm |
10 |
| May |
23.1 °C |
9.7 °C |
43 mm |
10 |
| June |
27.2 °C |
13.2 °C |
29 mm |
6 |
| July |
30.7 °C |
16.3 °C |
7 mm |
1 |
| August |
30.9 °C |
16.1 °C |
6 mm |
1 |
| September |
26.7 °C |
11.5 °C |
12 mm |
3 |
| October |
21.0 °C |
6.9 °C |
23 mm |
5 |
| November |
13.9 °C |
2.1 °C |
31 mm |
7 |
| December |
7.8 °C |
−1.2 °C |
46 mm |
10 |
The best times for walking in the Ihlara Valley are April to June and September to October. Thanks to the Melendiz Stream, the valley floor is cool and green even in summer, but the midday sun is scorching in open areas such as Selime. In winter the valley is covered in snow and the paths can become slippery.
How to Explore the Ihlara Valley
The Ihlara Valley was formed as the Melendiz Stream eroded the lavas of Mount Hasan; it is a canyon 14 km long, running from Ihlara to Selime, and in places 100–150 metres deep. Over a straight-line distance of 8 km, the stream makes more than 26 meanders. Along the valley are dwellings, tombs and churches carved into the rock; the decoration in the churches spans the 6th century to the end of the 13th.
- The valley is usually walked from the Ihlara entrance to Belisırma (the section where the churches are concentrated); at Belisırma you can stop at the restaurants by the stream. Those who continue reach Selime via Yaprakhisar.
- Among the churches not to be missed are Ağaçaltı, Pürenliseki, Kokar, Yılanlı, Sümbüllü and the St George (Kırkdamaltı) church near Belisırma.
- Selime Cathedral at Selime, with its two rows of columns carved from the rock, is the largest religious building in the valley; as an archaeological site under the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, it has an entrance fee.
- Set aside a day to walk the whole valley; for a short visit, 3–4 hours between Ihlara and Belisırma is enough.
How to Get to Aksaray
By air: Aksaray has no airport. The nearest is Nevşehir Cappadocia Airport, about 77 km away; Kayseri Erkilet Airport is about 160 km away.
By road: Aksaray lies at the junction of the roads linking Ankara (about 220 km), Konya (about 150 km) and Nevşehir. The Ihlara Valley is about 40 km from the city centre and Güzelyurt 45 km. Because public transport between the valley and the villages is limited, hiring a car or taking a tour is the most practical option.
Suggested Itineraries
Day 1 – Ihlara and Selime: In the morning, descend into the valley from the Ihlara entrance and visit the churches, and have lunch by the stream at Belisırma. In the afternoon, drive to Selime to see Selime Cathedral, and watch the sunset from the upper rim of the valley.
Day 2 – Güzelyurt and Aşıklı Höyük: Explore Güzelyurt’s stone houses, its church and the Monastery Valley (Manastır Vadisi); stop at the 5th–6th-century Kızıl Kilise in the village of Sivrihisar. On the way back, visit Aşıklı Höyük near Kızılkaya.
Day 3 – The city and the caravan road: In the city centre, visit the Grand Mosque, the Eğri Minare and the Somuncu Baba Tomb, and see the finds from Aşıklı and Acemhöyük in the Aksaray Museum. Then go to Sultan Han on the Konya road or Ağzıkara Han on the Nevşehir road.
Aksaray Cuisine
Aksaray’s table is known above all for its desserts. Aksaray inceelek tatlısı (inceelek dessert), registered in 2019, is made of thin filo layers sprinkled with walnuts, hazelnuts or almonds, baked and soaked in syrup. Aksaray tahinlisi (tahini pastry), registered in 2021 as a protected geographical indication, and köpük helva (foam halva) made from soapwort root (çöven otu) are the other registered delicacies. As a main course, be sure to try Aksaray tavası (Aksaray tava), in which tomatoes, peppers, garlic and meat are baked in a clay pot with butter.
Practical Tips
- You descend into the Ihlara Valley by steps; bring comfortable walking shoes and water.
- The Selime and Ihlara entrances are archaeological sites with an entrance fee; the Museum Pass (Müzekart) is valid.
- The valley gets crowded at weekends and during public holidays; start early in the morning.
- For those heading to the centre of Cappadocia (Göreme, Ürgüp), Aksaray is a starting point away from the crowds.