Getting to Know Eskişehir
Eskişehir lies in the north-west of Central Anatolia, on a broad plain divided in two by the Porsuk River. The origins of the city go back to ancient Dorylaion at Şarhöyük, north-east of today’s city, where layers from the Bronze Age to the Byzantine period are being excavated. From the 12th century BC the region was the heart of the Phrygian civilisation: Yazılıkaya (Midas City) in the Han district and Pessinus near Sivrihisar were among the most important Phrygian cult centres.
Known as Sultanönü in the Seljuk period, the region was the scene of battles with the Crusader armies. Because of its closeness to Söğüt, it was one of the first areas conquered by the Ottoman Beylik: Karacahisar Castle is counted among the first castles taken by Osman Bey. From the Ottoman period, the Kurşunlu Complex (1525) and the bay-windowed houses of Odunpazarı survive. The Anatolian railway, which arrived in 1894, turned the city into a junction and an industrial centre. Three of the five great pitched battles of the War of Independence – the First and Second Battles of İnönü and the Battles of Kütahya–Eskişehir – were fought on Eskişehir’s soil.
Today Eskişehir has a large student population at Anadolu, Osmangazi and Eskişehir Technical universities, gondola and boat tours along the Porsuk, a tram network running since 2004 and a lively café and cultural scene. Türkiye’s first high-speed rail line opened between Ankara and Eskişehir in 2009. The world’s finest meerschaum (lületaşı) deposits are also here.
When to Go
Eskişehir has a continental climate: winters are cold, summers hot and dry, and rainfall is low. Averages for 1991–2025 from the Turkish State Meteorological Service:
| Month |
Avg. high |
Avg. low |
Rainfall |
Rainy days |
| January |
4.4 °C |
−3.7 °C |
33 mm |
8 |
| February |
7.2 °C |
−3.4 °C |
28 mm |
8 |
| March |
12.1 °C |
−0.8 °C |
30 mm |
8 |
| April |
17.3 °C |
3.2 °C |
44 mm |
7 |
| May |
22.3 °C |
7.3 °C |
42 mm |
6 |
| June |
26.8 °C |
11.3 °C |
24 mm |
4 |
| July |
30.0 °C |
13.8 °C |
15 mm |
2 |
| August |
30.3 °C |
13.8 °C |
11 mm |
2 |
| September |
26.1 °C |
9.3 °C |
17 mm |
3 |
| October |
20.3 °C |
5.0 °C |
35 mm |
6 |
| November |
12.9 °C |
0.3 °C |
33 mm |
6 |
| December |
6.6 °C |
−1.6 °C |
42 mm |
8 |
April to June and September to October are ideal for the city and the Phrygian Valley. Summer days are hot but the nights are cool; when walking in the unshaded areas of the Phrygian Valley, avoid the hours around midday. In winter the Porsuk riverside and Odunpazarı take on a different beauty under snow, though roads in the countryside may be icy.
How to Get to Eskişehir
By high-speed train: Eskişehir is at the centre of the YHT network: it takes about 1.5 hours from Ankara and about 2.5–3 hours from Istanbul (Pendik/Söğütlüçeşme); services to Konya and Karaman also pass through Eskişehir. The historic Eskişehir Station (1894) is in the city centre.
By air: Hasan Polatkan Airport belongs to Eskişehir Technical University and has limited scheduled services. In practice most passengers fly to Ankara Esenboğa or the Istanbul airports and continue by high-speed train.
By road: Eskişehir is at the junction of the roads to Ankara (about 235 km), Bursa (about 150 km), Kütahya (about 80 km) and Afyonkarahisar. Within the city there is an extensive tram (Estram) and bus network.
Eskişehir Area by Area
- Odunpazarı: Bay-windowed Ottoman houses, the Odunpazarı Modern Museum (OMM), the Kurşunlu Complex, the Meerschaum Museum, the Contemporary Glass Arts Museum and the Atlıhan Handicrafts Bazaar.
- Tepebaşı: The Porsuk riverside, Sazova Science, Culture and Art Park, Kentpark and the mound of Şarhöyük (Dorylaion).
- Han and Seyitgazi (Phrygian Valley): The Midas Monument and Midas City at Yazılıkaya, Han Underground City, the Seyyid Battal Gazi Complex and the Phrygian rock tombs in Kümbet village.
- Sivrihisar: The UNESCO World Heritage Sivrihisar Grand Mosque, the village of Hortu (Nasreddin Hoca), regarded as Nasreddin Hoca’s birthplace, and the ancient city of Pessinus at Ballıhisar, 16 km to the south.
- Mihalıççık: The Yunus Emre Tomb in Sarıköy, where Yunus Emre is traditionally said to have lived.
- İnönü: The site of the İnönü battles of the War of Independence and the İnönü Martyrs’ Cemetery.
Suggested Itineraries
Day 1 – The city centre: In the morning, the Odunpazarı houses, the Kurşunlu Complex and the Meerschaum Museum; çibörek for lunch. In the afternoon, the Odunpazarı Modern Museum; in the early evening, a gondola or boat tour on the Porsuk and met helvası.
Day 2 – The Phrygian Valley: The Seyyid Battal Gazi Complex at Seyitgazi, then Kümbet and the rock steps of the Midas Monument and Midas City at Yazılıkaya. Han Underground City on the way back.
Day 3 – Sivrihisar: The Grand Mosque with its timber columns, the narrow streets of stone houses and Nasreddin Hoca’s village; in the afternoon, Pessinus at Ballıhisar.
Eskişehir Cuisine
Eskişehir cuisine has been shaped above all by Crimean Tatar immigrants. The symbol of the city is Eskişehir çiğböreği (çibörek), a thin-doughed, minced-meat pastry fried in hot oil. Another registered delicacy is Eskişehir met helvası: similar to pişmaniye but harder and more fibrous, this halva takes its name from the game of met played on long winter nights, in which the losing side would pull the halva. Eskişehir simidi is also registered.
Sivrihisar’s cuisine is rich in its own right: Sivrihisar höşmerim tatlısı (cheese and semolina dessert), Sivrihisar muska baklavası (triangular baklava), Sivrihisar kelem dolması (cabbage dolma), Sivrihisar arabaşı (chicken and bread soup), Sivrihisar dövme sucuğu (pounded sausage), Sivrihisar cebesi and Sivrihisar sarkası are registered products. Kızılinler bal kabağı (Kızılinler pumpkin) is also registered. From Crimean Tatar cuisine, haşhaşlı çörek (poppy-seed bread), kaşık böreği (tatar böreği) and kıbın are also common in the city.
Meerschaum and Handicrafts
Meerschaum (lületaşı; sepiolite, known by its German name Meerschaum, “sea foam”) is a white, light and porous mineral extracted from deposits north and east of Eskişehir. Because it is soft when extracted, it is easily carved; the world’s most valuable meerschaum pipe masters are in Eskişehir. The export of raw stone is prohibited, and it can be sold only as a worked product. Eskişehir lületaşı (meerschaum) has a registered geographical indication. You can watch the craftsmen at work in the Meerschaum Museum in Odunpazarı and in the Atlıhan Bazaar. Sivrihisar kilimi (kilim), Sivrihisar incili küpesi (pearl earrings) and Sorkun çömleği (pottery) are also registered handicrafts.
Practical Tips
- Odunpazarı, Kurşunlu and the OMM are within walking distance of one another; you can go down to the Porsuk riverside by tram.
- The monuments of the Phrygian Valley are spread over a wide area and public transport is limited; hiring a car is the most practical solution.
- On weekdays the city is lively with its student population; during the summer holiday (July–August) it is much quieter.
- When buying meerschaum, ask whether the stone is genuine; imitations made from a mixture of plastic and stone dust are common.