Getting to Know Çankırı
Çankırı is a province in the north of Central Anatolia, on the transition to the Black Sea, at the southern foot of the Ilgaz Mountains. The city stands on the site of the ancient Paphlagonian city of Gangra; the Galatian king Deiotarus made it his centre, and in the Byzantine period it was a place of exile. Passing to the Danishmendids after Malazgirt (Manzikert), the city withstood a siege by the Crusader army in 1101; the tomb of Emir Karatekin, who made Çankırı a Turkish homeland, stands on the castle hill.
The most important work to survive from the Seljuk period is the hospital (darüşşifa) built in 1235 by the atabey Cemaleddin Ferruh in the reign of Alâeddin Keykubad I (known locally as Taş Mescit). The relief of two dragons with intertwined bodies on its façade and the figure of a snake coiled round a cup are used today as the symbols of medicine and pharmacy respectively.
The Yâran conversations hold a special place in Çankırı’s cultural identity: in this tradition, men gather on winter nights under set rules and carry on with music, conversation and hospitality. In 2010 it was added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity under the name “Traditional Conversation Meetings”.
When to Go
Çankırı has a continental climate: summers are hot and dry, winters cold and snowy. Averages for 1929–2025 from the Turkish State Meteorological Service:
| Month |
Avg. high |
Avg. low |
Rainfall |
Rainy days |
| January |
3.7 °C |
−3.8 °C |
43 mm |
12 |
| February |
6.4 °C |
−3.0 °C |
34 mm |
10 |
| March |
12.0 °C |
−0.1 °C |
39 mm |
10 |
| April |
18.1 °C |
4.6 °C |
44 mm |
11 |
| May |
23.0 °C |
8.7 °C |
57 mm |
14 |
| June |
27.3 °C |
12.0 °C |
46 mm |
10 |
| July |
31.2 °C |
14.3 °C |
18 mm |
4 |
| August |
31.5 °C |
14.1 °C |
18 mm |
4 |
| September |
26.8 °C |
9.8 °C |
18 mm |
5 |
| October |
20.3 °C |
5.2 °C |
26 mm |
7 |
| November |
12.4 °C |
0.6 °C |
26 mm |
8 |
| December |
5.8 °C |
−1.7 °C |
45 mm |
11 |
May to October is best for the city and the Salt Cave, and December to March for skiing. The inside of the Salt Cave is cool all year round, so take a cardigan even in summer. The Yâran conversations are traditionally held in the winter months.
How to Get to Çankırı
By road: Çankırı is about 130 km from Ankara. In the north, the Ilgaz 15 July Independence Tunnel (2016) shortens the crossing of Mount Ilgaz and connects the city with Kastamonu and the Black Sea coast.
By train: Çankırı is on the Ankara–Zonguldak railway line.
By air: There is no airport in Çankırı; Ankara Esenboğa and Kastamonu airports are used.
Çankırı Area by Area
- Merkez: Çankırı Castle and Karatekin Tomb, Taş Mescit, Sultan Süleyman (Grand) Mosque and Çankırı Museum; the Salt Cave, about 20 km away.
- Ilgaz: Ilgaz Mountain National Park and ski resort, and the registered Ilgaz keşkeği and Sarıkılçık rice.
- Çerkeş: Çerkeş lokumu (Turkish delight), kurabiye (biscuits), sırma baklavası (gold-thread baklava) and su böreği (boiled-pastry börek).
- Eldivan, Şabanözü, Kurşunlu: Eldivan cherries, Şabanözü dondurma helvası (ice-cream halva), and Kurşunlu keşkek and blossom honey.
Suggested Itineraries
Day 1 – Çankırı centre and the Salt Cave: In the morning see the medical symbols of Taş Mescit, Sultan Süleyman Mosque and Çankırı Museum; climb to the castle for the view of the city and Karatekin Tomb. In the afternoon, the galleries of the Salt Cave; in the evening, Çankırı bütün et (whole meat dish) and yumurta tatlısı (egg dessert).
A winter day: Skiing at Ilgaz Ski Resort; on the way back, Ilgaz keşkeği.
Çankırı Cuisine
With 32 geographical indications registered with TÜRKPATENT, Çankırı is a province very rich in cuisine for its small population. The main ones are Çankırı bütün et (whole meat dish), sarımsaklı et (garlic meat), Çankırı kıymalısı (kapalı pide) (closed minced-meat pide), tutmaç and cimcik hamuru çorbası (cimcik dough soup), Çankırı yumurta tatlısı (egg dessert), hameyli tatlısı, höşmerim, kesme kadayıf (cut kadayıf), yazma çöreği, Çerkeş lokumu (Çerkeş Turkish delight), Çerkeş kurabiyesi (Çerkeş biscuits), Çerkeş sırma baklavası (Çerkeş gold-thread baklava), Ilgaz keşkeği (Ilgaz keşkek), Şabanözü dondurma helvası (Şabanözü ice-cream halva), Eldivan kirazı (Eldivan cherries) and Çankırı kaya tuzu (Çankırı rock salt).
Practical Tips
- Visiting hours and rules at the Salt Cave may vary with the operator; get information before you go.
- The roads up Mount Ilgaz are covered with snow in winter; carry chains.
- To watch Yâran conversations, follow the city’s cultural events in the winter months.